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details from edge markings (it may be a mixed stock print or a dupe) - check colour (stocks prior
        to 1982 are likely to be faded unless on Agfa or Technicolor stock). Note the number of joins in
        each spool (more than 20 joins per 1600 ft, we consider splicy). Add up the footage from the
        markings on a Tuscan spool and divide by 36. This gives a good indication of the running time
        in minutes (polyester stock is much thinner, so allow for this!). Finally, a general examination for
        lines and image quality with a magnifying glass. All this can be done easily & quickly on your
        re-winder without projecting and constitutes a good bench inspection. Final thought though; is it
        a foreign language print?!
        Tip From The Archive:  Aluminium oxide is the topic of the month here at the archive, following
        a delivery of films in cardboard boxes on aluminium Cyldon spools. They had been stored for a
        very long time and at some time in damp conditions. This has triggered a chemical reaction
        between the cardboard and the spool, the aluminium decomposing into a fine oxide dust which
        can be poured like salt - it's gritty and gets everywhere! Alas, this and the damp has caused water
        damage to many of the films which have been completely ruined. The message is keep your films
        cool but dry and it highlights yet another reason for not keeping your films in cardboard boxes!

        Tip From The Archive:  Most of us use projectors with quartz halogen lamps nowadays and run
        the machine on the economy lamp setting for maximum lamp life. Some will have experienced
        blackening of the inside of the lamp and premature failure. First thought is the lamp has been over
        volted, but actually the opposite is the case. Halogen lamps work on very tight voltage window
        in order for the gas principle to work. The rated voltage less 10% will extend the life; increase
        volts by 2% will over-run and fail. The National Grid is often less than 240 volts nowadays. When
        the projector is used on economy light, this results in the lamp being under-run, blackening and
        failing. Check that the mains voltage tapping on your machine is set to 240 v (not 250 v) and if
        you experience lamp blackening, run at maximum lamp brightness.

        Tip From The Archive:  Manufacturers of projectors paid a great deal of design attention to
        matching lamp, reflector and lens in order to achieve the maximum light on the screen. For
        instance, substituting an f1.2 lens for the original f1.4 on older Bell & Howell 8D 1000 watt
        machines does not produce the extra brightness one might expect because the more modern lens
        is designed to work with the much smaller filament area of the halogen reflector lamp. Substitut-
        ing a 250 watt lamp in older Elf machines causes the 200 watt transformer to over-run and thus
        never  fully  powers  the  new  lamp.  With  Elmo  GS1200  machines,  the  designated  ESC  lamp
        produces more light on the screen than the similar A1/252 (EJL) because the filament size and
        reflector shape are designed to focus the light on the smaller format. Older small barrel lens fitted
        into sleeves tend to be similarly unsuccessful. The motto is don't tinker because the manufacturers
        usually knew best!
        Tip from the Archive:  Don't over fill the reels! It's tempting to re-spool that feature on 3 x 1600
        ft reels to 2 x 2000 ft, but this usually results in the spools being too full making them very
        difficult to manage. Add to this a twisty film and you are likely to end up with take-up problems
        and film all over the floor - just what a digital audience was waiting for! Remember also the
        importance of using a proper take-up spool to minimise such problems.
        Tip from the Archive:  Most of use tape joiners nowadays. The Italian CIR tape splicers are the
        industry standard. These come as professional models in 8mm, 16 mm, 35 mm and 70 mm. There
        are also the lightweight models in 8mm, Super 8, 9.5 mm and 16 mm. The most useful is the CIR
        M3 professional model which has adjustable sprocket teeth to cope with shrunken film. Brand
        new, a 16 mm model costs around £375.00, so is in great demand when any come to the market.
        Always use genuine film splicing tape (not sellotape!). Apply light tension to the roll of tape with

        22  REEL DEALS    June 2019
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