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building blocks in relation to the landscape, road
lay-out, etc., nevertheless considerable time and
trouble was devoted to its making (it measures 6
feot by 4 feet).
The materials used were: thick cardboard for the
buildings, which were lightly tinted with water
colour as they were completed. Pieces of sponge
dipped in poster colour for the trees, while roads,
paths, grass plots, etc., were again .poster colours
applied with a brush. The purpose of the model
was to have cine shots of certain portions inter-
posed with other shots of the existing actual locality
scheduled for re-development, thus it fulfilled its
purpose in the presentation of the idea of the local
surveyor to the members of the Council.
The making of models for film sequences brings
forth several points for careful consideration, viz.:-
(i) in the architectural model, as mentioned above,
every side is meant to be scrutinised from various
angles, whereas the film model requires to be seen
only from one or two fixed points-thus it is only
necessary to concentrate on portions of the model
that show. All hidden parts and backs of buildings
can be left out, thereby saving much time and
trouble. (ii) Unless for some special reason, the film model should be shot from
the viewpoint of a person in scale with the model as it is taken for granted that
such shots will be intercut with true ones. This in turn will have a direct bearing
on the scale and size of the model to be constructed. The larger the model the
FIG. 4 more space, material and time will be necessary, and
more detail will have to be put into it if realism is
to be achieved. (iii) If the model is to be destroyed
by fire during filming, a number of points crop up,
about which more later.
For a single building or small group of buildings
it has been found that working to a scale of t inch
to one foot is quite satisfactory. Since there are
no fixed rules in model-making, the following is the
method adopted by the writer on a model to that
scale. The walls consist of t inch thick hardboard
with the door and window openings cut out with a
sharp knife to give a realistic set back to the walls
tiE frames, consisting of thin strips of balsa wood suit-
(Fig. 2). Behind these (A) are secured pieces of
celluloid, upon which are fixed the door and window
1=1 ably cut and stuck on to the celluloid. Surfaces
which represent glass are not filled in. The outer
corners of walls are formed by mitreing the meeting
edges carefully and glued together (Fig. 3),
DO strengthened as found necessary by small wood
blocks behind. If the outer walls are to represent
pebble-dash or roughcast, a layer of glass-paper
glued to the cardboard will produce the right effect,
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